1990s Vacheron Constantin Overseas

In the 1970s a new category of watches was born that would forever change the watch industry—the integrated bracelet sports watch. These new watches represented a significant departure from traditional watch design, featuring barrel-shaped cases, industrial bezels, and wide bracelets with large central links that were seamlessly fitted to the lugs. At the helm of the initial offerings were premium steel watches conceptualized by legendary designer Gerald Genta, starting with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976. Eager to add their own entry, Vacheron Constantin worked with designer Jörg Hysek to launch the reference 222 in 1977. While the Royal Oak and Nautilus would go on to have lengthy and illustrious careers, the 222 was discontinued just seven years later in 1984.

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It wasn’t until 1996 that Vacheron, fresh off its acquisition by the Vendôme Luxury group (now Richemont), would re-enter the integrated bracelet category with the introduction of the Overseas. Designers Dino Modolo and Vincent Kaufmann focused their efforts on creating a travel-ready watch that was inspired by the 222, yet distinctively different. The new Overseas sported the usual barrel-shaped case, but was now fitted with a three-piece bracelet, crown guards, and a polished bezel that was a direct nod to the brand’s Maltese cross logo.

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During its production from 1996 to 2004, the first generation Overseas was offered in a 37mm “jumbo” size, a 35mm mid size, and a 24mm ladies size and came in five different dial colors—white, black, blue, gray, and rarest of all, salmon. In addition, the watch came powered by either the automatic caliber 1310/1311 or quartz caliber 1320. Both were COSC certified movements, and the latter was likely an addition aimed at satisfying converts from the Quartz Crisis who now preferred the convenience and affordability of battery-powered timepieces.

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Since its introduction, the Overseas has become a mainstay in Vacheron's catalog and has taken its place as the third member of the Holy Trinity of integrated bracelet watches. Yet unlike first generation models of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the 90s Overseas hasn’t been subject to the same inflated pricing from the steel sport watch craze. This will surely change in the coming years as collectors discover these incredible value propositions, especially examples sporting a stunning and highly desirable salmon dial like this one.