2000s Cartier Santos Galbée SIHH Limited Edition

For much of its watchmaking history, Cartier has focused its efforts on uniquely shaped watches forged in precious metals, such as the squared Santos-Dumont and the rectangular Tank. That all changed in the late 1970s when Cartier released the Santos Carrée, a more accessible watch in two-tone paired with a sporty integrated bracelet. The Carrée ("square"), known for its boxy case and modest 29mm x 41mm dimensions, became one of the most iconic watches of the 1980s and helped to popularize the brand with a younger audience.

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In 1987, Cartier updated the silhouette of the Santos Carrée with softer edges and called it the Galbée ("curved"). The new iteration saw the white lacquer dial of the Carrée swapped for a silver dial with an intricate guilloché pattern. In addition, Cartier replaced the flip-lock clasp with a more streamlined butterfly clasp. The result was a sturdier, slimmer watch that conformed better to wrists.

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While configuration options for the Galbée were minimal, Cartier shook things up at the 2002 SIHH tradeshow in Singapore with the release of the watch offered here. This all-steel variant, produced in a limited run of 2000 pieces, features a gray sunburst dial with fully lumed numerals and hands. Even more noteworthy is the omission of a date window, something not seen in any other midsize Carrée or Galbée. The sleek tone-on-tone presentation seems to be the perfect match for the Galbée’s streamlined profile, and it’s not hard to see why this edition holds a special place in the hearts of Cartier collectors.