1990s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Championship

There was a time when I couldn’t fathom owning a Royal Oak. Watches in the limelight aren’t typically what I gravitate towards, and the RO has seen its fair share of hype in recent years. Perceptions aside, I was recently able to try on a vintage 4100ST and it all finally clicked. Still, it would take a pretty special reference to get me into Gerald Genta’s magnum opus. Enter the 33mm Royal Oak Championship 56175TT.

‍

‍

This watch was produced in limited quantities to celebrate Sir Nick Faldo’s back-to-back championships at the 1990 Masters and British Open. It was also the first Royal Oak made with tantalum — a lustrous blue-gray metal known for its exceptional hardness, weight, and corrosion resistance. With the importance of this watch in mind, AP decided to power it with an ultra-thin quartz movement. Yes, the AP caliber 2612 serves an important purpose by allowing for an incredibly thin 5.6mm case.

‍

‍

The result is a watch that’s paradoxically weightless in appearance but heavier than a vintage Day-Date in hand. This is especially remarkable considering the inner links and bezel are made of stainless steel. Tempting as it may have been to go full tantalum, two-tone was the right choice. Instead of a flat appearance, the warm sheen of the stainless steel dances against the cool dull of the tantalum to create a dynamic play of light that perfectly compliments those famous facets and angles.

‍

‍

If you can’t tell, I’m enamored with this piece. Rarely these days do sports watches become my fixation, but leave it to Genta to ignite my interest! When I came across this early example with the original skinny hands and unmarked crown still present, I knew I had to act. Finally, my Holy Trinity collection is complete.