1980s Cartier Santos-Dumont Ultra Thin

Cartier’s first watch, the Santos-Dumont, was introduced in 1904 and marked a significant milestone in horology by modernizing the concept of a wristwatch. No longer just a bespoke piece of jewelry, this watch was designed specifically for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont as a tool to time his flights. By 1911, Cartier was producing a version of the Santos-Dumont for public purchase, solidifying itself as an important player in the watchmaking industry.

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Highlighted by a flat case and a square bezel decorated with rivets, the design of the Santos-Dumont has remained largely unchanged over the years. While reference and production numbers during the early and mid-century aren’t well known, things changed when Cartier transitioned to Switzerland-based watchmaking and serialized their production in the 1970s. During this time the Santos-Dumont was re-released in a 24mm size under the reference number 78097.

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The iteration offered here, reference 96054, is the follow up to the 78097. The case size was bumped to 27mm and the movement was upgraded to the ultra thin Frédéric Piguet caliber 21, which allowed for a 4.2mm case height. Examples came in yellow gold with white lacquer dials that contained either a “Paris” (Paris) or “Swiss” (New York) signature to denote which boutique the watch was retailed at. These “extra plat” watches are truly special, and after a few moments on the wrist, it’s not hard to see why this reference remains one of the most collectible iterations of the Santos-Dumont.