1980s Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase

In 1775, after years of studying watchmaking and mathematics, Abraham Louis Breguet established his own workshop in the Île de la Cité in Paris. With his focus completely dedicated to innovation in horology, Breguet would go on to invent the world’s first automatic watch in 1780, patent the tourbillon complication in 1801, produce the world’s first wristwatch in 1810, and lay the groundwork for the modern chronograph in 1820. Over a century later, long after his death, his eponymous brand was waning from years of questionable leadership and the effects of the Quartz Crisis. It would take another one of watchmaking’s prominent figures — Daniel Roth — to revive and restore the brand to its former glory. 

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Roth was hired by the Chaumet brothers in 1975 and spent much of his early days studying Breguet’s designs and inventions before eventually translating them into wristwatch form with the help of Louis-Maurice Caillet. The two maintained Breguet’s aesthetic language and used it as a foundation, adorning their watches with engine-turned dials, circular-grained chapter rings, painted Roman numerals and flamed blued pomme évidée hands. Roth’s storied fourteen-year career at Breguet eventually came to an end in 1988 after the Chaumet brothers were forced to declare bankruptcy, but his vision for the brand has continued to live on since then.

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Among the more inspired pieces from Roth’s time at Breguet was the reference 3130, which pulled layout and technique directly from Breguet’s N°5 pocket watch sold in 1794. The unique dial features several complications arranged in asymmetrical harmony, including a power reserve indicator, a moonphase display, and a sub-dial pointer date. The example here bears a ‘Swiss’ only dial, a cabochon crown, and an ‘A’ serial number, which places its production just after Roth left the brand. One of Breguet’s best-sellers during the 1980s, the 3130 remains a standout piece today as collective interest in neo-vintage Breguet continues to rise.