Overview
Cartier’s first watch, the Santos-Dumont, was introduced in 1904 and marked a significant milestone in horology by modernizing the concept of a wristwatch. No longer just a bespoke piece of jewelry, this watch was designed specifically for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont as a tool to time his flights. By 1911, Cartier was producing a version of the Santos-Dumont for public purchase, solidifying itself as an important player in the watchmaking industry.
Highlighted by a flat case and a square bezel decorated with rivets, the design of the Santos-Dumont has remained largely unchanged over the years. While reference and production numbers during the early and mid-century aren’t well known, things changed when Cartier transitioned to Switzerland-based watchmaking and serialized their production in the 1970s. During this time the Santos-Dumont was re-released in a 24mm size under the reference number 78097.
The iteration offered here, reference 96054, is the follow up to the 78097. The case size was bumped to 27mm and the movement was upgraded to the ultra thin Frédéric Piguet caliber 21, which allowed for a 4.2mm case height. Examples came in yellow gold with white lacquer dials that contained either a “Paris” (Paris) or “Swiss” (New York) signature to denote which boutique the watch was retailed at. These “extra plat” watches are truly special, and after a few moments on the wrist, it’s not hard to see why this reference remains one of the most collectible iterations of the Santos-Dumont.
Specifications
Brand:
Cartier
Model:
Santos-Dumont Ultra Thin
Reference:
96054
Year:
1980s
Case Number:
960540435
Case Material:
Yellow gold
Diameter:
27 mm
Lug Width:
17 mm
Thickness:
4.2 mm
Lug-to-Lug:
36.0 mm
Dial:
White
Lume:
None
Crystal:
Mineral glass
Movement:
Hand-wound
Caliber:
Frédéric Piguet 21
Bracelet/Strap:
Molequin midnight black saffiano strap with gold-plated tang buckle
Max Wrist Size:
Hand model has a wrist size of 6.2 in
Condition
Case: The yellow gold case shows normal wear in the form of a few hairlines, light scratches, and tiny scuffs throughout. The lugs are thick and well defined with the chamfers still intact. The bezel remains flat and crisp at the edges. The caseback has hairlines and light scuffs present. The brand, serial, and hallmark engravings are sharp and legible.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The white lacquer dial shows light discoloration at the edges and a couple faint cracks and micro bubbles visible only under a loupe. The blued sword hands are free of any notable imperfections. The mineral glass crystal has some micro chipping at the edge near 2 o'clock, but otherwise remains clean and scratch-free.
Bracelet/Strap: Both Molequin calfskin straps show hardly any wear with plenty of life left to give.
Performance
Functions: All functions including the crown winding and time setting are working as expected.
Service History: The watch underwent a full service by WatchCheck that was completed on 09/30/2025.
