2010s Tudor Black Bay

In the late 1920s, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf envisioned a watch line that could offer the build quality and mechanical reliability of a Rolex, but at a more accessible price point. Thus, Tudor was born, and in 1932 the brand released its first series of rectangular watches for the Australian market. By 1954, one year after Rolex introduced the breakthrough Submariner, Tudor followed with the reference 7922, a more affordable version that mirrored the original in nearly every way. Tudor eventually took its Submariner line in a new direction in 1969 by introducing the reference 7016 “Snowflake”, which sported a unique dial and handset design that became emblematic of the brand’s dive watches.

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In an effort to recapture the heritage of these original dive watches, Tudor launched the Black Bay line in 2012 with the reference 79220R, which featured a burgundy bezel, gilt accents, and iconic “Snowflake” hands. The series took the watch world by storm, becoming an instrumental part of Tudor’s relaunch in the United States, and establishing the brand as a top player in affordable luxury sports watches. In 2014, the collection expanded with the introduction of the Black Bay reference 79220B, which swapped warmer tones for silver text, white metal surrounds, and a blue bezel. The initial trilogy was then rounded out in 2015 with the black bezel reference 79220N.

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While numerous Black Bays have been released since, none match the charm of the original trilogy, which feature a vintage rose logo, curved “smiley” self-winding text, and an easily serviceable ETA movement. The 79220B offered here hits the sweet spot between versatility and distinction with its white metal accents and signature blue bezel that harkens back to Tudor's vintage Marine Nationale Submariners. For collectors in search of an original Black Bay, or a model that’s slimmer than the brand’s current 41mm offering (12.8mm versus 13.6mm), the 79220B is a worthy pick.