Overview
The Patek Philippe Calatrava has a long history dating back to 1932 when the Stern brothers, fresh off their acquisition of the manufacturer, unveiled a time-only dress watch that would go on to set the standard for all others that followed — the Calatrava reference 96. The name, of course, is a nod to the brand’s usage of the medieval Calatrava Cross, an emblem of the Spanish military’s Order of Calatrava. With its simple design, modest proportions, and many configurations, the timeless style of the Calatrava continues to endure nearly a full century later.
The reference 5026R offered here is part of an important series of Calatravas that helped transition the line into the modern era during the 1990s. These watches boast a curious blend of styles, merging a classically executed flat bezel case and a mid-century dial design with contemporary elements such as an off-center small seconds and an exhibition caseback. The latter provides a view of the Geneva-sealed automatic caliber 240 inside, the same micro-rotor movement used in the brand’s flagship ultra-thin perpetual calendars.
With an estimated production of only a few hundred examples per configuration between 1997 and 2002, the 5026 is a true rare bird. The rose gold versions with applied Breguet numerals seem to be especially scarce, and desirable, as they incorporate two elements highly sought after by enthusiasts. Despite their striking features, these neo-vintage Calatravas remain under-the-radar and present a wonderful opportunity to own an important and distinctive piece from Patek’s storied dress watch history.
Specifications
Brand:
Patek Philippe
Model:
Calatrava
Reference:
5026R
Year:
1997
Case Number:
4018402
Case Material:
Rose gold
Diameter:
33.5 mm
Lug Width:
19 mm
Thickness:
7.6 mm
Lug-to-Lug:
41.0 mm
Dial:
Black
Lume:
None
Crystal:
Sapphire
Movement:
Automatic
Caliber:
Patek Philippe 240 PS
Bracelet/Strap:
Patek Philippe brown alligator strap with rose gold tang buckle
Max Wrist Size:
Hand model has a wrist size of 6.2 in
Condition
Case: The rose gold case shows normal wear in the form of a few hairlines, faint scuffs, and micro nicks. The lugs are nice and strong with excellent definition between brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel remains flat and crisp at the edges. The condition of the caseback is consistent with the rest of the watch. The Patek Philippe service sticker remains attached over the rear sapphire crystal. The case hallmarks are sharp and legible.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The satin black dial is in fantastic condition with a few micro signs of patina under a loupe, but no notable imperfections. The polished Breguet hands show some micro wear under a loupe, but remain clean overall. The front sapphire crystal is squeaky clean and scratch-free.
Bracelet/Strap: The Patek Philippe alligator strap shows hardly any wear outside of some light staining and creasing to the leather backing. The rose gold buckle has a few hairlines but no major dings. The brand and hallmark engravings remain crisp and detailed.
Performance
Functions: All functions including the crown winding and time setting are working as expected.
Service History: The watch underwent a full service by Patek Philippe that was completed on 07/01/2025.
