1997 Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase

In 1775, after years of studying watchmaking and mathematics, Abraham Louis Breguet established his own workshop in the Île de la Cité in Paris. With his focus completely dedicated to innovation in horology, Breguet went on to invent the world’s first automatic watch in 1780, patent the tourbillon complication in 1801, produce the world’s first wristwatch in 1810, and lay the groundwork for the modern chronograph in 1820. All of these accomplishments easily make him one of the most influential watchmakers in the history of horology. Yet over a century later, long after his death, his eponymous brand was waning from years of questionable leadership and the effects of the Quartz Crisis. It would take another one of watchmaking’s prominent figures—Daniel Roth—to revive and restore the brand to its former glory. 

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Roth was hired by the Chaumet brothers in the 1970s and spent much of his early days studying Breguet’s designs and inventions before eventually translating them into wristwatch form with the help of Louis-Maurice Caillet. The two maintained Breguet’s aesthetic language and used it as a foundation, adorning their watches with engine-turned dials, circular-grained chapter rings, painted Roman numerals and flamed blued pomme évidée hands. Among the more directly inspired pieces were the references 3130 and 3330, which pulled layout and techniques from two of Breguet’s pocket watches. Other references, such as the 3237 and 3350, paid homage to the master’s work on the chronograph and tourbillon complications. Roth’s storied fourteen-year career at Breguet eventually came to an end in 1988 after the Chaumet brothers were forced to declare bankruptcy, but his vision for the brand would continue to live on in the decade that followed.

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The reference 3580 here comes from the post-Roth period in the 1990s and retains all of the DNA that made his run so successful. It is essentially another take on the design of the iconic reference 3130, but in a slightly smaller form factor and with a hand-wound caliber instead of an automatic. The power reserve and moonphase indicators are preserved, but the register at 6 o’clock now contains a running small seconds that’s more true to the original design of the Breguet N°5 pocket watch. Those who look closely will notice that this example is a special early variant, bearing a “Swiss” only dial and a cabochon on the crown. What’s more, this rarely seen watch comes with its original boxes and papers, and even has the moonphase corrector tool, making it a standout offering from an era of Breguet that continues to rise in popularity.