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1997 Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase

34.5 mm

A Classique Moonphase with a dazzling silver dial, a power reserve indicator, and the Breguet 618 hand-wound movement.

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In 1775, after years of studying watchmaking and mathematics, Abraham Louis Breguet established his own workshop in the Île de la Cité in Paris. With his focus completely dedicated to innovation in horology, Breguet went on to invent the world’s first automatic watch in 1780, patent the tourbillon complication in 1801, produce the world’s first wristwatch in 1810, and lay the groundwork for the modern chronograph in 1820. All of these accomplishments easily make him one of the most influential watchmakers in the history of horology. Yet over a century later, long after his death, his eponymous brand was waning from years of questionable leadership and the effects of the Quartz Crisis. It would take another one of watchmaking’s prominent figures—Daniel Roth—to revive and restore the brand to its former glory. 

Roth was hired by the Chaumet brothers in the 1970s and spent much of his early days studying Breguet’s designs and inventions before eventually translating them into wristwatch form with the help of Louis-Maurice Caillet. The two maintained Breguet’s aesthetic language and used it as a foundation, adorning their watches with engine-turned dials, circular-grained chapter rings, painted Roman numerals and flamed blued pomme évidée hands. Among the more directly inspired pieces were the references 3130 and 3330, which pulled layout and techniques from two of Breguet’s pocket watches. Other references, such as the 3237 and 3350, paid homage to the master’s work on the chronograph and tourbillon complications. Roth’s storied fourteen-year career at Breguet eventually came to an end in 1988 after the Chaumet brothers were forced to declare bankruptcy, but his vision for the brand would continue to live on in the decade that followed.

The reference 3580 here comes from the post-Roth period in the 1990s and retains all of the DNA that made his run so successful. It is essentially another take on the design of the iconic reference 3130, but in a slightly smaller form factor and with a hand-wound caliber instead of an automatic. The power reserve and moonphase indicators are preserved, but the register at 6 o’clock now contains a running small seconds that’s more true to the original design of the Breguet N°5 pocket watch. Those who look closely will notice that this example is a special early variant, bearing a “Swiss” only dial and a cabochon on the crown. What’s more, this rarely seen watch comes with its original boxes and papers, and even has the moonphase corrector tool, making it a standout offering from an era of Breguet that continues to rise in popularity.





Classique Power Reserve Moonphase





Case Number:

955 F

Case Material:

Yellow gold


34.5 mm

Lug Width:

18 mm


7.6 mm


40.3 mm










Breguet 618


Breguet black alligator strap with yellow gold tang buckle

Max Wrist Size:

Hand model has a wrist size of 6.2 in


UNWORN: Case is pristine with no signs of use. Original stickers may still be present. Dial, hands, and lume have no imperfections and may show natural, even aging.

MINT: Case has only a few superficial hairlines. Lugs are thick, full, and sharp with superb finishing. Dial, hands, and lume may have micro imperfections visible only with a loupe.

EXCELLENT: Case has very light scratches or nicks. Lugs are thick, full, and well-defined. Dial and hands may have imperfections visible upon close inspection. Lume is fully intact and may show slight discoloration.

VERY GOOD: Case may have a few moderate scratches or nicks. Lugs are thick and full but may have softened edges. Dial and hands may have light stains or marks. Lume may have cracks or discoloration.

GOOD: Case has many scratches and nicks. Lugs may show signs of moderate polishing with worn edges. Dial and hands may have noticeable stains or marks. Lume may be damaged or show significant discoloration.

Case: The yellow gold case shows light signs of wear with a few hairlines, tiny nicks, and micro scuffs present. There are a couple faint spots of oxidation visible on close inspection, but the overall presentation is very clean. The lugs are thick, sharp, and incredibly well-defined, leading us to believe they have remained unpolished. The caseback has been nicely preserved with only light hairlines and a couple micro nicks present. The model and serial number engravings are detailed and legible.

Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The silver dial and blued hands are in pristine condition with no notable imperfections. The moonphase indicator disk shows light signs of oxidation to the moon and stars. The sapphire crystal is squeaky clean and scratch-free.

Bracelet/Strap: The Breguet black alligator strap shows moderate signs of wear with some creasing around the buckle holes and darkening of the leather backing. The yellow gold buckle exhibits minimal wear and is consistent with the rest of the case. The signatures and hallmarks remain crisp and detailed.


Timing: The watch has been measured with a timegrapher at six different positions. The rate, amplitude, and beat error are within acceptable ranges. While resting face up, the rate is +4s/d.

Functions: All functions including the crown winding, time setting, and moonphase push button are working as expected.

Service History: Unknown.

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What's Included

What's Included



Breguet Classique Power Reserve Moonphase on a black alligator strap.



Boxes, suede sleeve, moonphase corrector tool, customer service booklet, leather guarantee holder, and guarantee dated May 1997.